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I added a counterweight in the fork arm
opposite the dec drive. With the various weights I am
using it is possible to get balance good enough to be
able to release the locks and leave the OTA pointed in
almost any orientation without it turning. The other
weight in the photo is about 7lbs used to balance the
guide scope. First balance the scope about the dec axis
then about the RA. If you break this down into to
seperate tasks it's MUCH easier. |
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This is my power distribution box,
basically a home made 12v outlet strip. Each plug leads
to a heater. The two free outlets power the window heater
on the camera and my light box. |
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Adding a sheet of Teflon under the wedge
make adjusting the azimuth during alignment much
smoother. (see next) |
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I made an azimuth adjuster out of a
turnbuckle from the hardware store, a left and right hand
threaded pair of bolts and some 'L' brackets, Teflon
washers, nylon filled lock nuts, and a Pepsi. The knob is
the lid from a medicine bottle that I cut a hole in, slid
over the turnbuckle and then filled with epoxy. One end
is anchored to the 'BB2200 scope saver plate' under the
wedge and the other is attached to the wedge. The
hexagonal cross section of the turnbuckle is useful. When
drift aligning I've learned to think in terms of a 'full
flat' or 'half flat' of adjustment. |
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Looking down on the azimuth adjuster note
the label indicating which way the knob rotation will
move the north end of the polar axis. This is so much
better than the absurd system Meade supplies that
requires you to adjust two knobs at once with your arms
wrapped around the scope all while standing on the wrong
side of the scope for what you are doing. |
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Since I roll my scope out of the garage
to observe I use a set of 'JMI Wheely bars'. As supplied
the ends of the cross members can be twisted which means
the entire scope can wiggle slightly in azimuth. I use
reference marks painted on the driveway to avoid drastic
realignment. I wanted a more rigid structure. I made a
large 3/4" plywood gusset that adds weight to the
assembly and prevents the cross members from twisting. |
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I replaced the supplied adjusters with
plastic hand knobs with pieces of 1/2" all thread
rod with a nut, lock washer, fender washer, lock washer,
nut assembly on the end. This allows me to use an
automotive breaker bar with a 3/4" socket on the end
to adjust the tripod from a standing position where I can
keep my eye on the bubble level. |
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This shows one of the adjusters with the
'leveling tool' slipped over it. This method is 5000
times easier than squatting to turn the knobs and then
'prairie dogging' up and down to see the level. |
